Monday, May 15, 2017

"...Oh:" A Detailed Illustration of Arielle's Many Misconceptions

Well, the countdown is on: 21 days now to enjoy the beauty of Scotland. My next posts will likely be of the more reflective nature, so I can fully assess the completion of my goals that I set for my exchange year. I'll try and throw in some pictures taken this year, too, just for a more visual experience. This post's topic: being proven wrong. A lesson in humility, if there ever was one.

There's a famous legend in our family that sets a precedent for my built-in blondeness. One time, when I was about 7 or 8, I heard my father using one of his favorite phrases at the dinner table: that "the whole famn damily" was going to do something together. I look up at him, proud of the chance to finally correct him about something for once-- and I say, "No daddy, you mean... Oh." Let's just say that it's not uncommon for me to think something, totally confident about it, and then realize my mistake later (sometimes mid-sentence). It's just part of my natural blondeness, I guess. Even today, when I have a misconception that usually ends in an "...oh," my family will repeat the story and laugh.

This year is no different. I began my adventure with some innocent and not-so-innocent preconceived notions about myself, my new home, and the world around me. It's strange to think that I might not have ever have realized these flaws if I had not taken an exchange year, which is why I'm so glad that I did. As usual, I have reflected on some of my more recent realizations, and have compiled them in a list of no particular order for your enjoyment. Enjoy the pictures, too-- I hope they illustrate the productiveness of study leave accurately.
Kary and I together for the last time in Scotland, dodging the rain on a hike through the Ochil Hills.
1. I'm sheepish to admit it now, but one of the misconceptions I had about British people is that they put milk into every type of tea. It was only when Mr. Duncan looked at me strangely for pouring milk into my peppermint tea at the beginning of the year when I learned that it was just black tea that was supposed to be all nice and creamy. I also learned that there's a specific art about making said cup of tea, and this usually varies from person to person. The ratio of water to milk in the cup, the heat of the water, even the way you take out the tea bag are only a few of the variables that go into making the perfect drink. Who knew it would be so complicated? Definitely not me at the beginning of the year.

2. A more serious yet unexpected misconception I discovered, one I only realized about halfway through the year, was that I found myself valuing and trusting American sources and information  more than those of other countries. Allow myself to illustrate with an example: given the choice in Modern Studies of citing either the British Medical Association or the US Department of Health and Human Services, I would always choose the latter. And this choice was for studying health inequalities... in the UK. I also find myself leaning towards American books, TV shows, even clothes brands. Is this my own manifestation of the "America is the best" mentality? That even though I am thousands of miles away from my homeland, I am willing to go to greater lengths to keep ties with it?
I've partially overcome this fallacy by enjoying some solely British media, such as QI (Quite Interesting), a quiz show which might just be my favorite way to relax now. Realizing the value in what other countries can offer has been a perspective-widening experience for me, and I hope to continue using this skill in the future.

April showers bring may flowers!
3. We all know of the legendary food, Haggis-- a compilation of oats, sheep's insides, and who knows what else, served with a nice side of "neeps and tatties" (turnips and potatoes). I thought this was a normal weeknight meal, but as usual, I was mistaken. Haggis is eaten a few times a year at most for the majority of the population, and from what I have experienced, it's not actually that popular of a choice anyway. What a surprise, right?

4. Other people just do not see the world the way I do, and they didn't grow up in the same situation as me-- and vice versa. A few weeks ago, I was shocked at the fact that Hamish had no idea what "Veggietales" was (it was pretty funny to see his face after hearing of a 90's show with singing Vegetables teaching kids about Christianity). Then again, I was clueless about the TV show "Peppa Pig" until this year as well. This goes for more somber examples, too, like how I grew up in a country where firearms are legal and most people here haven't. When someone told me that they were scared to travel for the US for this very reason, I scoffed at first. That's ridiculous, I said-- you're not going to get shot at the airport, or any place for that matter. Upon further reflection, however, it made more sense to me. If you know America allows lethal weapons, and hear on the news that almost everyone has one, why would you not be scared? They simply live in a society with polar views about the issue to America, so that's all they know. So, I've stopped saying, "What? You haven't seen/heard of/done that?"  and have accepted others' lives as an entirely different experience. And that's definitely not a bad thing.

Hamish being a nerd at the Glasgow Science Centre.
5. One of the most divisive issues currently in the UK is that of Scotland's independence (and Brexit, for that matter); experiencing the conflict here has allowed me to understand and empathize with each viewpoint in a way I would never have been able to otherwise. Before, I had partially envisioned Scotland as the poor, enslaved land under the cruel, tyrannic rule of Westminster: who would ever want to turn down the chance of sovereignty? The truth is, many Scots would jump at the chance. But there are also those who consider the benefits of staying with England-- like security benefits and tax deductions-- more valuable than complete freedom in decision-making. To me, both are valid viewpoints, and the same can be applied to Brexit. No issue is as simple as it seems, so no decision will be the "no-brainer" one. It's funny, but I find that in general with studying politics: the more I learn, the more I am indecisive about my own views. More precisely, the more I realize that I don't even know what I don't know.

6. I thought I would see a lot more men wearing kilts this year. But the truth is, I've really only seen them worn A. for tourism purposes in Edinburgh, B. for sacred occasions at school, and even then only some pupils and C. on a rare, super traditional/nationalistic old man. When they do wear them, however, I appreciate the unashamed way that Scotland's customs are shown. I can see most American males I know being way too self-conscious to rock the tartan, even if it was considered as "traditional," and it's always nice to see some national pride. And another thing about kilts: I never knew that they were so expensive. Like, worth a couple return flights to Greece expensive. I promised some people a kilt upon my return, which was a big mistake on my part. Sorry, Major Brandt-- a picture's going to have to do this time...

Lots and lots of lavender..
That's all I can think of for now-- a short list, but an efficient one. The weather has been perfect and sunny for this study leave (another misconception about Scotland?); we have been cherishing the chance to explore the outdoors in between revision sessions. With only three weekends left, I really have to prioritize what I do with my time here. But hey, at least I don't waste that time drinking peppermint tea with milk anymore!

Thursday, May 11, 2017

"No Ragrets!"

A few weeks ago, I was faced with an agonizing decision. I could stay in Scotland until the end of the school year on June 29th, attend the Form VI programme full of trips and seminars, and play in the orchestra for the Spring Musical, or I could leave early to accept a job offer for Culver Summer Schools, see my family again for the first time in 10 months, and enjoy some time with some much-missed Culver friends. Both options were honestly of equal value to me, and it was painful to choose of the two. But since I had to be back in Culver by the 10th of June to accept the offer, I had to pick one of the two.

In the end, after contemplating, reflecting, and admittedly crying a little, I decided to come home early. It was the first time that I had actively thought about returning home, which made me more homesick than I've ever been here (funny-- doesn't that usually happen at the beginning of a journey?). I've worked at Culver for the past three years, and I couldn't bear being left out of it this year. Plus, it was hard enough not seeing my siblings for this long: when presented with the two options, I can't be blamed for choosing the one that would enable me to see them again.

So, is there anything I wish I could did--or didn't do-- on my gap year? Honestly, not too much. In other words, I definitely wasn't this guy:



Okay, back to seriousness. I do feel as though I could have taken harder classes this year. A small part of me had thought at the time that I wasn't smart enough for the course load, but I was pleasantly surprised at my academic efficiency that I had gained from Culver. If I had to do the year again, I would have taken Advanced Higher Modern Studies instead of just Higher, and maybe taken another new course like Psychology instead of staying safe with a Politics class. I guess I'll have to wait until IU to be really challenged, but it was nice to have a "year off" studying.

Even though I was still actively involved in musical activities at Dollar, I do regret not taking private music lessons here. It wouldn't even have to be cello-- I could have picked up a new instrument, like the flute (or, dare I say it, the bagpipes). I don't feel as though I improved that much musically, and my hands are visibly less calloused than they were at the end of my Honors in Music concert last year. But I don't worry about it too much; music is always there for me. My own cello is waiting patiently for me in my room in Culver.

Lastly, I wish I had kept in better touch with my Culver friends. It was great to be so close to Kary and I thoroughly enjoyed our visits, but I could have reached out more to so many people: Clare, Anne, Katie, Morgan, everyone. Although it doesn't feel like it, it's been almost a year since we walked through the famed gate and arch together. One of the first things I am doing when I get home is call them all up, head straight for the coffee shop, and have a nice, long conversation. The best thing about Culver relationships is that they are always there, no matter how long it's been, so I'm not too worried about this either.

Of course I wanted to end the year strong, dance at the summer ball, attend the house barbecue. I'll dearly miss all my friends here, and I'll miss Europe's culture that made me feel at home for so long. But the thing is, I truly feel like I've accomplished all that I wanted to on my exchange year. I don't have any burning desires to experience anything else, and I feel like I've gotten everything I can out of being here. The items on my bucket list are virtually all checked off. I was able to make irreplaceable friends...


Finally see a precious highland cow...


...Travel to a bunch of famous places...


...Feel content with myself...



...And in the next few weeks, I'll hopefully be able to climb a Scottish munro, something that I really wanted to do here.

So all in all, I'm content with my decision. As cheesy as it sounds, I feel in my heart that this is not the last experience here: someday, I will return. It could be the Dollar Class of 2017 10-year reunion, or it could be in my future career. Who knows? I'll thoroughly enjoy enjoy the last month I have here, just as much as I will enjoy finally coming home at the end of the year. This is not the end. In fact, I think it's just the beginning.

Friday, May 5, 2017

Boarding School Showdown

When I was touring the highlands with Mrs. Rutledge, Paul, and Evan, we fell a few times on the topic of comparing American and British boarding schools. Both Evan and I are ESU scholars that attended Culver Academies for four years, so we definitely had much to say about the subject. I remember Paul asking Evan and me, "if you had to choose, then, which would you say is better? If you had to pick one?"

It's a reasonable question to ask. One of the main reasons for a secondary school change, after all, is to develop the ability to compare international school systems. However, both Evan and I had difficulties directly answering the question. Paul's inquiries were admittedly answered with a lot of well's, um's and sort of's. We didn't want to respond with a cliché "they're both good in their own way," but that seemed the most accurate way to put it. As always, the answer is much more complicated than it seems.

So, which one is better: Culver or Dollar?  It's impossible for me to say that I hated one or loved the other, because boarding encompasses an immeasurable number of aspects in one's life. I've constructed a list of seven of these aspects to make the question a bit easier: academics, extra-curricular activities, boarding life, location, school spirit, freedom, and personal development. It's far from a comprehensive list, but it's a good enough start. I can't speak of Evan's experience with his own boarding school, nor can I speak on behalf of all British boarding schools (or American ones, for that matter); this is simply what I've personally observed in each administration. So, don't take it too seriously!

Category 1: Academics

This is obviously an important one, especially for me. It was one of my top priorities at Culver, not to mention the reason I applied for ESU. Culver's curriculum was undoubtedly more rigorous than Dollar's, as I have mentioned in previous posts: my homework time halved upon my arrival at Dollar.
Although I had next to no free time at Culver, I feel as though my hard work was setting a strong, firm basis for a successful life. In addition, it's where I developed my passion and curiosity for many of my interests: politics, French, and writing. Perhaps it is because I enrolled in less challenging courses at Dollar, or because I am older now, but the majority of what I learned here was not in the classroom. It was in the boarding house, or travelling outside the country, or in the books I read outside of class. Many courses are lecture-based anyway, and are therefore a bit less engaging compared to Culver's competitive Harkness discussions.

Winner: Culver

Category 2: Extra-curricular Activities

I must mention that I always considered sports at Culver were extremely intense, almost too much so: most of them would hold practice two hours a day, for five days a week, some expecting additional weekend (or even weekday) workouts. Sure, that's great if you want to become a professional athlete, but not for a nice after-school activity. Culver's clubs had the opposite problem: the Human Rights Club, for example, met rarely and was generally underfunded. With Dollar's sports and clubs, I can participate in multiple activities without worrying that I am "betraying" another: there's time for everything. I went to orchestra on Mondays, ran on Tuesdays, Choir on Wednesdays, Yoga or Amnesty International on Thursdays, and Friday to relax. It wasn't the end of the world if I was too tired or too caught-up to go one week, and it is almost unheard of to be kicked off a team. The flexibility worked well with my schedule, and I enjoyed the ability to try so many new activities.

Winner: Dollar

Category 3: Boarding life

Dollar and Culver share few similarities in boarding life; it is difficult to compare them. Linden housed close to fifty girls, while Heyworth has about fifteen. Roommates are a necessity at Culver, while in my House the majority of rooms are currently single. CGA featured dorm moms and counselors, while Dollar has house families. If I had to make a choice, though, I would have to lean towards Heyworth. A small house and a single room allow for quiet study time and more privacy, which are both rarities in a dorm hall. At 8 PM on the dot, we are all downstairs, enjoying a snack and each other's company. We are more like sisters than housemates, a relationship difficult to achieve with dozens of girls. And then there are the tiny-but-not-insignificant perks: Heyworth is a close walk to the dining hall, it has cats, and the house ladies wash and fold our laundry every day. Oh, and we don't have a stealing problem like we did in Linden sometimes, which is always nice.

Winner: Dollar

Category 4: Location

I thought I had this one all figured out. For the first few months, I kept thinking, "how am I going to go back to boring old Northern Indiana after spending almost a year at the foot of some of the most beautiful hills in Scotland?" But then I remember Culver's beautiful 1300-acre campus on the legendary shores of Lake Max, and remember that some would give an arm and a leg to live where I lived for 18 years. It's where General Lew Wallace wrote the famous chariot race chapter in his book Ben-Hur, calling it "the most beautiful place in the world," and it's where Kurt Vonnegut spent much of his life. Yes, I thoroughly enjoyed the change of scenery, and I will undoubtedly miss the opportunity to go on a hike--or even climb a mountain--at my leisure. Spending ten months away from Culver, however, really has led me to realize that there is no place like home.

Winner: Tie

Category 5: School Spirit

I will always hold a special place in my heart for the Culver Academies: it's a unique, wonderful place full of unique, wonderful people. It's easy to take the Friday night football games, the Thursday Retreats and the Sunday Parades, the drill teams, the Black Horse Troop, Officer's Figure, even the uniforms for granted. I still feel the pain of sentimentality when I remember my own graduation, with all of us in our white dresses or uniforms ready to throw our bouquets/hats into the air. Dollar has its moments of pride, of course, especially with its world-class pipe band and remarkable rugby team. But there's no equivalent to hearing "The Eagle Rumble" at a basketball tournament, or the, well, thrilling "thrill" of the Culver Song booming from a crowd with the ultimate amount of enthusiasm. I think it's because the majority of pupils here are not boarders, so Dollar is "just a school" for many. But Culver is a lifestyle, there's no doubt about it.

Winner: Culver

Category 6: Freedom and Independence

Sorry, Culver, but this one is obvious. At Dollar, I can go to town whenever I want. I can change out of uniform after school, and I don't have to wear it to the dining hall for dinner. On the weekends, I can jump on a bus to Glasgow or Edinburgh for the day. I don't have to prepare for Sunday inspection, and I don't get an infraction for having my top button unbuttoned. I don't have to worry about being expelled if I drink alcohol (which I would never ever do); instead, the boarding house trusts us and teaches us how to drink responsibly. This year, I've appreciated the trust that the school has given me and have used it wisely. That said, however, Dollar is quite strict on its no-jewelry-little-makeup policy, which can get a little annoying. I guess no place is perfect...

Winner: Dollar

Category 7: Personal Development

I end with a category that I consider the most important, even more than academics. I feel as though Culver instilled in me its values over my four years the most, and I owe my diligent work ethic to it.
Despite its tediousness, all that leadership paperwork and training did pay off in the end. CGA's leadership system can be almost as rigorous as its academics, but I learned countless invaluable skills in all the workshops and council positions: how to cooperate, compromise, and overcome challenges. If it weren't for the emphasis on personal reflection, I would not be writing this blog.
It's not as though Dollar did not help me personally develop, but I do miss the effort that Culver made to help its students from Dr. Boys' talks on gratitude to Mentor-Mentee Time.

Winner: Culver

Sorry if you were expecting a direct, concrete "___ is the best school," but you're not going to get it. The truth is, I hold both schools dearly close to my heart. I'm proud to wear the CGA crest as much as the Dollar coat of arms; similarly, the Ochil Hills and Lake Max have equal value to me.And in the years to come, in Indiana University and beyond, I'll look fondly on each school-- the good and the bad-- and the memories I created at both of them.

Sunday, April 30, 2017

Arielle's Travel Tips!

When I was younger, I used to commiserate with the pitiful George Bailey from the movie It's a Wonderful Life: trapped in a small rural town, yet with an insatiable desire to see the world, except Bedford Falls was actually Culver and I'm not deaf in one ear. Even though Georgie is still one of my favorite fictional characters, I can't really compare myself with him anymore since I've been to the UK, France, Italy, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, and the Czech Republic (I'm counting flight stopovers, just because I can).

A lot of my time overseas has been traveling over breaks, so I've decided to make a compilation of advice I've picked up on my adventures. Most of these tips will be particularly useful for young frugal travelers who prefer seeing cities, with the obvious reason being that I was one, but others will apply to anyone who wishes to see more of the world. Enjoy!

1 Scarves are my go-to garment while travelling because they are just so versatile. I have a nice oversized one that has served as a pillow, a blanket, an extra layer, a bag for dirty laundry, you name it. Mini towels are also nice to have on hand, if you have room, so you don't have to rent one.

2. If you're travelling on a budget and are using a hostel, just make sure that it has hot water. And heating. No need to elaborate on this too much.

3. Traveling alone is an incredibly rewarding and relaxing experience, but it takes some getting used to. I find travelling with someone more stressful, actually, because I'm always afraid that said person is not enjoying themselves. In Europe, it's incredibly safe to make a journey on your own, with most other big cities being acceptable too. Just make sure that you communicate often so that someone knows where you are, just in case. You don't want a worried parent frantically calling your hostel because you forgot to keep in touch for one too many days (sorry, Mom).

4. Take less of your clothes on long journeys, so you can wash them when you need a break from sightseeing. It's not that expensive, but even better, it saves room for souvenirs or shopping you may want to bring home. A warning about souvenirs, though, in tip #7.

5. Go grocery shopping to save money on food. It doesn't have to be boring or conventional things either-- this is the time to experiment with the recipes you've always wanted to try! I do, however, have some go-to ingredients that are especially travel-friendly. Look for longer-lasting, easy-to-transport foods such as apples, tortillas for wraps, carrots, mushrooms, chickpeas, pesto, hard-boiled eggs, and pasta. Cheese tends to go with pretty much everything, too, so I always have some on hand if I have access to a refrigerator.

6. McDonalds and Starbucks almost always have free WiFi. So, instead of buying an expensive SIM card for overseas communication, as suggested in tip #3. just enjoy a WhatsApp call with a morning latte. Great way to start the day!

7. Buy less souvenirs and more experiences: a snowglobe is nice, but a trip to a national museum will be much more memorable. If you really want something tangible to bring back home, boarding passes and tickets work just fine. On the same subject, pictures are invaluable: take as many as you can. You can always delete the ones you don't want later, but the feeling of regret for not capturing a special moment is the absolute worst.

8. It sounds silly, but bring a first aid kit with you on your travels. You don't want to be stuck without it, even if chances are you won't, and it doesn't take up that much space anyway. On my last day in Prague, I sliced my finger open with a butter knife cutting open a roll, and it was the one trip that I didn't bother taking any band-aids or antibacterial cream. It's also nice to have some aspirin, cough medicine, and peppermint oil (it helps with stomach problems, headaches, and pretty much every other ailment!).

9. If you ever find yourself in a significant city (at least in Europe), Sandeman tours are THE ABSOLUTE BEST. They're free tours that usually last around three hours, and they are incredibly entertaining. All of my tour guides have been absolutely wonderful, and it's where I've gained the most information about the location I'm visiting. I've been to ones in London, Amsterdam, Hamburg, Berlin, and Prague. It's an excellent way to become acclimated to a city and see all the major sites, so I like to do one on the first or second day.

10. Don't take any risks with pick-pocketing. Thankfully, it's never happened to me, but people have attempted-- got into a scary situation at the Basilique de Sacre Coeur one time. I always wear a vest with numerous inside pockets, which makes my passport/visa/cash/cards/phone/etc much safer than they otherwise would be. I would suggest the same for any other traveler, especially in a crowded city.

11.  Walk as much as you can, because you will enjoy the city much more than you would on a subway. Hamish and I found the most interesting sites in Rome while just wandering around the city, and it really minimizes your transport money too.

12. Bring something that will help you relax, because travelling can actually be quite stressful. I keep a journal to calm any racing thoughts, as well as to document my activities, and it really does help. If knitting, reading, crossword puzzles, or music helps you enjoy yourself more, then it earns a place in your suitcase.

13. If you're visiting a particularly popular monument or museum, booking online is the best option. Not only is it often cheaper, but it saves you from standing in line for hours. Trisha and I didn't have to wait at all for the Rijksmuseum or the Van Gogh museum-- we just waltzed in with our tickets! It's especially useful during winter months where you don't want to be in the cold for hours.

14. Plan, plan, plan (continuation of tip #13?). It's key to having a really good travel experience. While it might be tempting to say, "I'll just play it as it goes" (especially with hostel-hopping), There is almost always an event or setback that you will not expect. In order to make sure that I will have a place to stay for every night, I make my plans weeks in advance-- and accommodation rates are way lower this way too.

And that's all I can think of, for now at least. I'm sure I'll wake up sometime in the middle of the night within the next few days and say, "gosh darn it, I should have mentioned that," but so be it. I feel incredibly lucky to be able to share this information from my own experience, even though I had to learn some of them the hard way. That's part of the experience, I guess, and I'm looking forward to many more in the future!

Friday, April 21, 2017

Prague, A Fairytale City (Spring Break Part 2)

 This post is a continuation of my last publication, which outlined my time in various locations in Germany. So, I'll just start where I left off: Dresden. After a morning of enjoying the city, I took a short train ride to a whole other country-- not something that you can really do in the United States, huh? After only about an hour and a half, I was observing the classic views of Prague. I wanted to end my exploration of Europe for the year here for quite a few reasons: I had heard of its beauty and cultural significance from many of my European friends, for one, but also because I didn't know much about the Czech Republic and thought the best way to learn was to experience it for myself. Turns out I was right.

Old Town Square, with the spires of the Tyn Cathedral in the background.
After my first day in Prague, it was already my favorite European city that I have seen so far-- and it was even better considering the festive Easter celebrations. The only way I can describe it is that it truly is a fairytale city, complete with castles and palaces.The cobbled streets came alive with the irresistible scent of Trdelniks (chimney cakes, a traditional Eastern European dessert) sold on the street, and the buzz of thousands of excited tourists. Countless vendors on the tiny roads offered Bohemian glass, marionettes, and Russian dolls to passers-by, giving the look of an 18th-century market in a way.



Easter festivals and chimney cakes-- what could be better?
The views of Prague were as amazing as any other European city I've visited, and I especially enjoyed seeing the exteriors (an interiors, if I got the chance) of the gorgeous cathedrals. My favorite was the St. Nicolas Church on the Old Town Square with its classic inner and outer beauty, which was the location for Mozart's own performances. The Church of Our Lady Victorious came a close second, holding the Holy Infant Jesus of Prague statue.

St. Nicolas Church, just a five minute walk from my hostel.

The Holy Infant Jesus statue, which has more outfits than I've ever owned.
I did achieve my goal of learning a little more about Czechoslovakian history, especially through--you guessed it-- museums. The Museum of Communism was probably the most informative museum that I visited in Prague, and undoubtedly the most memorable. It focused mostly on the implementation of Marxism in Central and Eastern Europe, possessing both ordinary objects from under Communist rule and rare propaganda artifacts, and showed a video with footage of the Czech protests during the late 20th century.


Leftist propaganda from the Museum of Communism.
The National Museum was unfortunately closed, but I was able to see a small temporary Retro-themed exhibition that illustrated fashion through the 20th century. As a girl who designed over 200 dresses in her childhood, I was thoroughly entertained for the whole afternoon.


Slightly less informative but just as entertaining was the Lego Museum, which possessed just about every set of the toy that you could imagine from the company's beginning in the 30's. I'm a particular fan of the Star War Legos myself, so you can imagine me geeking out at the sight of a huge Millenium Falcon made up of thousands of plastic blocks.




I also learned about the city through a walking tour, another of my favorite ways to experience big cities that I visit. My tour guide had countless stories about Czech history: its rulers, the significance of monuments, famous residents, and so on. He described Prague's style as "architectural lasagna" due to its layered looks from several regimes, which I thought was especially accurate. Here I discovered secrets about the famous Charles Bridge, the Velvet Revolution and the Prague Spring, and the beautiful Prague Castle. Speaking of which, it's the largest ancient castle in the world (it's really more like a whole neighborhood, and takes up a significant chunk of the city's land), and is absolutely breathtaking when lit up at night.


Antonin Dvorak, a Prague native and one of my favorite composers, outside the Rudolfinum concert hall.

One particularly moving story on the tour was of Jan Palach and Jan Zajic, students who both committed suicide by self-immolation as a protest to Communist rule in 1969. It was difficult to fully comprehend their actions as well as the situation that drove them, even when standing just a foot away from where it happened. Political life in the Czech Republic is so different from how it was before, and since I wasn't alive during either the Soviet Union or its fall, I can only imagine what it must have been like for its citizens at the time. 

A monument of where Jan Palach and Jan Zajic committed suicide as a political protest on Wenceslas Square.

Other adventures I embarked on in Prague included visiting the Lennon Wall (illustrated in my last photo), hearing a wonderful Easter concert from a Czech Philharmonic quintet, watching the famed Astronomical Clock make its hourly chime, and touring the Jewish district and cemetery while dodging the rain. Truthfully, Prague's culinary culture wasn't as rich as Germany's, but I was still able to enjoy some goulash and definitely NONE of the inexpensive, locally brewed beer (seriously, it's cheaper than water) because alcohol is DANGEROUS. Overall, the city is much cheaper than other European destinations (*cough* Paris *cough*)-- accommodation was less than ten euros a night, and thankfully, most places offered generous student discounts.

A traditional Czech goulash. If  anyone asks, that's apple juice in the glass.



And after a few days, before I even knew it, I was back in Dollar uniform again. I'm definitely going to miss what Europe has to offer, especially how it was so easy to travel. But now I feel like I'm so much more experienced and independent, so maybe I can continue these journeys when I go back to the US. After all, it's an incredibly diverse country, and there's still so much I haven't seen. But I'm eternally grateful for the ability to see so much this year, which is more than many people do in a lifetime. After this refreshing break from school, I feel confident that I can end the year strong and return to my home country a more developed, informed individual.

Thursday, April 20, 2017

Deutschland Uber Alles (Spring Break Part 1)

Well, it has certainly been an eventful, memorable, fantastic final break. While other students were busy poring over books to prepare for their final exams, I was busy going where no Arielle has ever gone before: to Cologne, Hamburg, Berlin, Dresden, and Prague. Talk about making my time in Europe worthwhile-- I don't think I could have fit more into it if I tried! It is impossible to combine all my locations during break into one blog post; therefore, I've decided to save my adventures in Prague for a later post. 

After flying into the Dusseldorf airport from Edinburgh, my first destination was to nearby Cologne, but only for the night. It is a small city compared to Berlin or Prague, but it had its own quieter charm from what I experienced. I felt that I had to visit, after seeing the Notre Dame Cathedral and St. Peter's Basilica, and Hamburg was a little too far away from my airport after a flight anyway.



The famous Cologne Cathedral was as awe-inspiring as it looks on all the travel websites, albeit quite a bit darker than one would imagine. Unfortunately, the outside was under construction, limiting the impact of the building's famous exterior. The stained glass inside was beautiful, however, and I always enjoy the feeling I get when standing on a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All things considered, though, I was still upset that I didn't smell any cologne... in Cologne. Because how cool would that be?


My next stop was to the buzzing city of Hamburg, where I had the pleasure of staying at my friend Henni's house for a few days. I was especially grateful to see Henni one last time, since she is not staying for Dollar's last term. Her family was extremely generous, enthusiastically suggesting sights to see around the city and even taking me out to sushi.



In a word, I would describe Hamburg as industrial-looking: not exactly pretty, but enjoyable nonetheless. My favorite free tour organization took me from the Rathaus, the glorious-looking Hamburg Town Hall, to the historically significant churches of St. Nikolai and St. Michaelis. But the high point of this destination was undeniably the Philharmonie, a new and beautiful concert hall and impressive addition to the city's skyline-- its architecture was amazing, and its view even better.



Thanks to Henni and her family, this was also where I got a little more familiar with the German language. For instance, they taught me that the funny little "ß" sign is actually a double s, like in the word "straße" (meaning street). German wasn't too difficult to understand considering the fact that English is a partially Germanic language, but I could definitely still work on my listening comprehension skills... Anyway. Similar to Cologne, I regret to say that I also didn't eat a hamburger... in Hamburg. That's because hamburgers weren't actually invented in Hamburg, but it still would have been pretty cool. Maybe next time, Henni?

After a few days, I made my way down to Berlin, which has been on my list of places to visit for some time now. Berlin was one of the most beautiful cities that I've seen, although not in the way that I expected it to be. The gritty street art blended surprisingly well with the countless memorials, and it did sort of have a hipster, modern vibe despite its historic reputation.



I stayed in a Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy-themed party hostel, which was certainly an interesting experience in itself, but my main intention was to immerse myself in the city's past. This obviously included seeing the Berlin Wall, but also the Brandenburg Tower, the Victory Column,Checkpoint Charlie, the site of Hitler's former bunker (now a car park), the Bundestag building, the Berlin Cathedral, the Holocaust Memorial, and so much more.

The Brandenburg Tower, which is actually quite similar looking to the Arch de Triomphe... and was in "Paris Square." Hmm.

The former Reichstag building, now the Bundestag building, seen from a Soviet war memorial.


Unashamed hipster photos of the Berlin Wall, just because I can.

The now extremely touristy Checkpoint Charlie. For like 20 Euro, you can get your passport stamped here.

There was so much that I didn't know about East and West Germany during the Cold War before I was able to explore Berlin, but personally witnessing all the artifacts, all the pictures, all the locations was more than I could ever have asked for. Exhibits such as the Topography of Terror and the Berlin Wall Memorial provided interesting, practical information, and it was refreshing to see a country being so honest about its history.



I also decided to buy a 3-day pass to the Museum Island, another UNESCO World Heritage Site and practically a city of its own, which turned out to be a great idea-- especially with the unbelievable student discount. Most of the museums (like the Neues Museum and the Altes Museum) focused on ancient history, going back as far as the Stone Age but also covering Greek and Roman areas, but I have to say that I enjoyed the National Gallery the most. However, there was also another independent musical instrument museum that I particularly enjoyed, which held Bach's original harpsichord among other priceless treasures, as well as a riveting National History Museum. Can you tell that I like museums yet?

Not exactly sure what these are, but I want one.

The longest dinosaur skeleton ever assembled, in Berlin's Natural History Museum.

A Roman arch in the Pergamon Museum.
I did very much enjoy the culinary legends of Germany here, from traditional Currywurst to Turkish Doner Kebaps to rich German chocolate, but I also experimented a bit with cooking in the hostel kitchen. As you are probably aware, Berlin is also famous for its delicious world-class beers (that I did not have ANY of AT ALL, because alcohol is BAD. Don't drink, kids.).

*Angels singing in the distance*
There was also more to Berlin than I expected, given that it's one of the biggest cities in Europe now. Right in the city center, there were beautiful gardens to explore on a nice day, and I was also able to see some of the creepy "ghost" train stations that were discontinued during the Cold War era. Overall, I was more than content with my findings in Berlin, and was so glad to be able to see it before my school year ends.


One of the "ghost" stations near the Berlin wall.
Dresden was my next stop, again only a few hours' train ride away, and was a great culmination to my experience of Germany. It was more touristy than I had anticipated, giving it a lively atmosphere-- I hadn't seen so much ice cream in one place since I was in Venice. There were less specific sites or landmarks here than in Berlin, but I still was able to walk through the Zwinger and around the elegant Frauenkirken. The Furstenzug was also a highlight of this location, being the largest porcelain wall panel in the world.

The Furstenzug in all its glory. Try saying that five times fast.

Dresden's Frauenkirken, (Church of Our Lady), which was unfortunately closed upon my arrival.
I wish I had spent more time here to explore Dresden, especially to learn more about its tragic history during World War II. You can still feel (and sometimes see) the effects of war on the area, even though the bombings took place decades ago. Like in Berlin, the bullet holes and shrapnel marks are visible on the few old buildings that actually survived-- it's a sobering reminder of what occurred where I was standing. Nonetheless, I was glad I stayed here (if only for one night), and would definitely go again if I have the chance in the future.  

And after Dresden, I continued to my final destination of Prague, which will be Part 2 of this post. But if there's one thing I can say for sure, it's that I fell in love with Germany-- its diverse landscapes, and its friendly atmosphere. It was so nice to be able to experience it, and to cross it off my ESU bucket list. Maybe I'll return someday, but until then, I have lots more adventures elsewhere.


Sunday, April 9, 2017

A Monstrously Good Time

When I discovered that I was attending the Dollar Academy through the ESU scholarship, one of the first actions I made was to make a bucket list of sights I wanted to see in Scotland. You know the drill: cruising Loch Ness, witnessing Ben Nevis, et cetera. It has been my intention this whole year to do all the touristy activities of the country, but I had little chance of actually experiencing them due to my preoccupation with travelling throughout the rest of Europe during breaks.

That is, until I felt the kind and generous manners of a family friend, Mrs. Rutledge, and her son, Evan Fischer, a long-time friend and fellow ESU scholar. The two of them (along with Paul, a family friend) offered to rescue me from school early to see the best that Scotland had to offer. Not only was it fantastic to see an old friend and reminisce about our fond Culver memories, but the trip also served as a nice big satisfying check mark on my mental bucket list for the year.



So, I left school early on Monday to catch a ride to Edinburgh, where we would start our tour the next morning. After a joyful reunion, we spent the night unpacking and settling in, not to mention catching up on sleep for the long tour ahead. Around a 12-hour-plus bus ride starting at 7:45 AM, the tour would take us clockwise around the mainland of Scotland, through the Highlands and with a stop at Loch Ness, before heading back to Edinburgh.



Despite the gloomy, cloudy weather, Paul, Evan, Mrs. Rutledge and I still managed to enjoy the tour tremendously. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, as you can imagine, since that's what Scotland is known for. In fact, the Highlands are so beautiful that they have been the background of countless iconic movies throughout history: on the first half of our journey, we past the familiar locations of Harry Potter's Hogwarts Express Train scene as well as James Bond's family home in Skyfall. From the perfectly reflective lochs to the majestic views of the munros (Scots for mountains), there was never an underwhelming moment. The tour guide especially made the trip entertaining, recounting tales of William Wallace and Pitlochry's famous "salmon ladder" while occasionally playing "The Proclaimers" or the "Red Hot Chili Pipers" on the radio (and no, I'm not making that band up).



We made a few stops along the way, of course, to keep the blood flow in our legs. Here we had the chance to visit charming pubs, stroll the tiny villages, and even pick up some tablet or a cheesy tartan souvenir from a gift shop. But the best break, hands down, was to the famous Loch Ness. On our pleasant cruise across the iconic Scottish lake, we entertained ourselves by drinking local Scottish beer, appreciating the scenery, or trying to make hoax pictures of the Loch Ness Monster by shaking our phone cameras and zooming in unnecessarily far until maybe perhaps you could see something.


As geeky as it sounds, I did have the intention to see a hairy coo (what non-Scottish people would call a "fluffy cow") before I left Scotland. I am pleased to say that I did in fact meet this goal-- well, sort of. Technically, we did drive past some on the way back to Edinburgh, but we didn't get to stop and bask in their glory. Maybe I'll get the chance to do that before I leave sometime. Anyway, I think that Paul, Mrs. Rutledge, and Evan would agree with me that we had fully Scotland-ed ourselves out by the end of our tour-- but not before stopping for some delicious pub grub afterwards.


 The next day was our last full day of Scotland sightseeing, so we decided to visit the Edinburgh Castle, which in my opinion is the best one in the country. The Castle was as striking as I remembered it to be at the beginning of the year, with its Crown Jewels and Stone of Destiny. I still sometimes forget that Scottish history goes back thousands of years, to it was an effective reminder of Edinburgh's grand and rich offerings. Afterwards, we amused ourselves with a Scottish Whisky Tour, including tastings and a detailed history of the drink. I wouldn't say that whisky is my go-to-drink, and I can't tell the difference between Islay and Highland whisky at all (it all tastes like fire to me), I did appreciate the effort that made it happen and even developed a small fondness for the burning taste... A little. Maybe. But then we destroyed our taste buds even more by a visit to Nando's, a popular Portugese chain restaurant in Britain, which specializes in spicy food. I may or may not be still recovering.


The next day, after Mrs. Rutledge and Paul left to catch their flight to London, Evan and I did a bit of shopping before saying goodbye for the time being. I am just so lucky to enjoy the generosity of the Rutledge family, and to have caring friends even 3000 miles away from home. I don't know how I will ever be able to express my gratitude enough for the kindness they all showed towards me, welcoming me like I was part of the family. And I thank Culver for this, as well, for giving me these social connections and surrounding me with wonderful people during my time there. My experience with ESU has really helped me to appreciate what I had, and what I have now-- I mean, I'm writing this in Germany just a 15 minute walk from the Brandenburg gate! But that's for another blog post sometime else. For now, I would just like anyone reading this that I am grateful, no matter where I may be.