Tiptoeing through the Tulips

Paris? Check. Rome? Check. London? Check. Next on the Europe bucket list for me, of course, was Amsterdam, another of Europe's great cities. Although popular with tourists for its toleration of sex, drugs, and who know what else, the city appealed to me because of hits vibrant culture and cultural significance, not to mention its beautiful scenery. Although I was unsure of what to expect at first, Amsterdam soon captured my heart. In a word, the city is artsy-- not like Paris, which was a work of art in itself, but the streets were simply bursting with creativity. Although I struggled through the whole journey with ear pain and malfunctions, not to mention a terrible cold, my ailments were a small price to pay for what became another trip of a lifetime.

The Royal Palace of Amsterdam.

A scene from the Oude Kerk, the oldest church in Amsterdam, which was conveniently right next to my hostel.

My companion for this trip was Tricia Smith, a fellow ESU scholar who I met in London at the Thanksgiving dinner. Appreciative, curious, and flexible, she was the perfect traveling mate. It is not easy to find someone who is more than content with spending 4+ hours in a contemporary art museum  and Tricia is that kind of person. Our similar interests and tastes allowed for harmonious entertainment for the both of us, day after day. We bonded over our thoughts and experiences we had accumulated through the year, as well as our reminiscences from back home in the States. It was really a pleasure to share my journey with her, and I hope she feels the same.

The Atmosphere

I must admit that my first impression of Holland was its over-the-top, unintentionally hilarious language, I couldn't help but laugh out loud at some of the advertisements and signs on the street and think, how do they possibly say this with a straight face?

Some examples of giggle-worthy Dutch words.

Otherwise, though, the scenery around us was attractive, elegant, and sophisticated.  Although it was cold at first, even snowing the first few days I was there, the weather soon warmed up so that people could freely savor the internationally appreciated environment. The picturesque and peaceful canals of Amsterdam just as enjoyable as those of Venice, if not more so. And the bikes sprawled about the bridges made it even better, giving it a laid-back and welcoming vibe. You do definitely have to be careful in the city, though, because those innocent-looking bikes will easily run you over if you cross the street at the wrong time.

The locals are friendlier than any place I have visited so far: in the words of a tour guide, they are glad the tourists are there, unlike Paris, where they are considered a nuisance. Amsterdam is also one of the most diverse cities in the world, so it was amazing to hear the stories of real locals' journey to the city. Japanese art came to life on the brick building walls, with an Argentinean restaurant just around the corner. In my hostel room alone, I had great conversations with Macedonian, Italian, and British travelers who, like me, were attracted to Amsterdam's culture.

There were certainly--ahem-- interesting parts of the city, of course. Stereotypes usually have at least a bit of truth in them, and Amsterdam is not an exception. Space cakes and marijuana-themes souvenirs could be found in virtually every shop window, right along with clogs, bicycle figurines, and fake tulips. I didn't realize that my hostel was right smack in the middle of the red light district, which was certainly an interesting experience, but not to worry-- that's actually the safest part of the city. But as for me, I was content with spending my time elsewhere when I wasn't sleeping.

The outside of the breathtaking Rijksmuseum in the snow.

The Museums

Practically every day, Tricia and I made our way to at least one of Amsterdam's internationally known museums of art, history, and culture. It is impossible to choose a favorite between them: each had a certain charm about them that enthralled any visitor, no matter their age or interests. The Rijksmuseum was a perfect immersion into Dutch art, and was a good starting point in knowing all the important eras in Holland's history.

The Rijksmuseum's library, which was an absolute masterpiece.

The Van Gogh Museum featured countless all-too-familiar oeuvres, and spun the capturing yet tragic biography of the artist beautifully. 

A picture I definitely wasn't supposed to take of Van Gogh's palette. Oops. 

The Anne Frank House was a somber reminder of the evil capabilities of humanity, but also of the power of hope and perseverance. The Resistance Museum also provided excellent depth and perspective about the occupancy of Holland under the Third Reich, showing that history is far from black and white.

The Homomonument, a homage to homosexual victims of the Holocause right adjacent to the Anne Frank House. 

The Amsterdam museum gave great detail of the growth of Amsterdam over time, and how it came to be of such international significance.

Tricia, participating in an interactive exhibit at the Amsterdam museum.

Lastly, the Stedelijk Museum surprised me especially with a wonderful exhibition on Jean Tinguely's moving sculptures, and how he integrated sophistication with humor. I'm not usually one for modern art, but the works were so thought-provoking that I had no choice but to enjoy it.

The Rest

With so many galleries in Amsterdam, one might think that Tricia and I spent all our time observing art and history. But we did find time to experience the city in other ways (and no, in case you're wondering, this does not include some of Amsterdam's usual infamous tourist activities). Our first day, we wandered down to the floating tulip market--which ironically had no tulips due to the climate--but it was an interesting stop nonetheless.

The Bloemenmarket, a legendary floating flower market.

We also enjoyed the gorgeous sights sights of Amsterdam on both a walking tour and a canal cruise, which were as informative as they were entertaining. More than once, we headed to some of Amsterdam's best markets, which were lively and authentic (not to mention cheap).

The Albert Cyup market, where we got all our best souvenirs.

As you might expect, cheese shops were ubiquitous in the city, so we made sure to make some stops to taste some of the free samples with only a little guilt. My favorite activity, though, must have been when we rented bicycles for a day and rode through Vondelpark on a crisp morning.

It really felt like I was experiencing real Dutch life, and not observing it like a zoo, which tourism can often feel like.

A scene from a tulip shop right next to the Anne Frank House.

The Food

One of my regrets from this trip was that I did not try much of Holland's traditional cuisine-- you know, raw herring sandwiches, pancakes and bitterballen. However, on advice from our walking tour guide, we explored the cuisine that the locals enjoy most: Indonesian, Surinamese, and other Asian dishes. Sure enough, there were "Wok to Walks" on just about every street corner: it was a refreshing change from the UK's go-to Indian curries.

We ate from the supermarket often for cost and convenience reasons, but we did make sure to try some of Amsterdam's best. There was a Lebanese place that served some unconventional yet tasty pizza, and another place which served legendary savory crepes.

Lebanese pizza?? Don't knock it 'til you try it.

One morning, we treated ourselves at the "Happy Pig," the supposedly best pancake and waffle shop in the city-- and wow, did it live up to its reputation. Tricia had the delicious-looking Vale
ntine's Day Special with strawberries and caramel sauce, while I indulged in a waffle with fig jam.

On the last night, we culminated our visit with a Chipotle-style Mexican joint, which served the best burrito I have ever eaten. I did try Holland's famous stroopwafel (another funny word), a this wafer-like waffle with gooey syrup. Totally worth the stickiness.

So now, after spending the night at the Rattray house, I'm back at school and ready for school tomorrow. It will be a relatively relaxed half-term until spring break, with only a few assignments-- the workload will increase, I'm sure, as the end-of-year exams approach. I'm just so glad I got another chance to go and see Europe during my time here-- it's all about taking the opportunities as they come. I haven't decided where I will go during spring break, but I'm thinking either Germany (Berlin, mainly) or just a road trip around the UK. That's more than a month away, though, so for now I will be fully enjoying my time right here in Scotland.